Sometimes French-inspired cuisine is no farther away than an elevator ride to the 19th floor, home of John Davenport’s, the restaurant at the Omni New Haven Hotel at Yale, 155 Temple St., New Haven, 203-772-6664.

If you haven’t taken this ride, you are missing a hidden gem in New Haven’s culinary scene. The panoramic view is spectacular, overlooking Long Island Sound and historic New Haven, when at this time of year, the streets are decorated with twinkling lights and the tree sparkles on the Green.

The well-respected restaurant serves traditional and nouveau New England fare, and through at least the end of the year is proud to offer Simmer Saute Sante — The Flavors of France as well. To see the rest of this column and recipe, please click here.

To see my food and travel colum archives, please click here.